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Unregistered(d) |
lifting the left front |
Lead | |
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I know this is a late model board but this board has been very helpful with my mod in helping me under stand certain things about a race car bizit hit the nail on the head in helping that guy with the dw with raising the pan- hard bar up on the pinion and adding static rear steer i just like to say thanks to jj for a good tech board now i have a question how do you guys pull the left front is shocks soft springs on the right side i would to here some thought i need some pictures too again thanks for all the info guys
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Racingfreck |
Yep Yep | ||
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Running a softer spring on the right rear, running the panhard bar lower on the pinion and frame mount and running less left side percentage are three things that will cause a car's left front to come of the ground. Obviously running a softer spring allows for more roll over. But all three will cause for a tight race car. Running less left side percent is of course lightening the left side and allowing for more roll over. And by moving the panhard bar down, you're moving the roll center down and to the left of the car. The more to the left that roll center is, the higher that left front. We like to have our car's left front patting the ground at 3/8" mile and longer distance tracks. The reason; the higher that left front is coming of the ground the more side bite your getting and the tighter the car. These longer tracks, instant side bite isn't needed as much as it is for these small bull rings. We want the car to come off the corner smooth and not bind up. At the little 1/4" mile track we run I have the car lifting up the left front just a little higher. We're getting instant side bite off the corners and the cars tighter which means you're in the gas all the time. Also the higher that left front, when it comes down to go in the corner it will set itself when that left front hits the dirt. Keep in mind running that left front high off the ground doesn't always mean a faster car. The higher the left front, the tighter the car. Both of these can be scary so you have to have the nerve to drive that beast. If you look at some of Jimmy's pictures, he's got that thing up there, LOL.... Later The Freck
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Unregistered(d) |
thanks | ||
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Thanks for the compliments, some times...well hell almost every time we offer advice to people are answer there questions, they never come back and let us know how well it worked. Sometimes that is a bit frustrating..but oh well what do you do. Also to get that left front up in the air you want your lead placement higher in the car. Not sure about the right rear spring, to soften it and make it roll over more, that is tricky advice because we do not know the spring angle. So I always just offer a bland reccomendation on the RR...Heck actually I've been on the same spring on the RR for 3 season, but there are some cars out there on a different shock/spring angle and they require softer settings and some of the older cars (pre 99) that had to have the updates for the LR behind need a stiffer RR to be tight and those dudes 3 wheel...Guy say in a 98 warrior with spring behind and is 3 wheeling, I would bet is on a pair of 250's across the back...Anyhow good luck....
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Unregistered(d) |
WHEEEELEE'S | ||
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Both of our esteemed xperts are correct in there own obversavations.
Here is my explination! COG! AND ROLLCENTER!!!! I can have a 275 in the rr and it will roll as much as what it would if there was a 175. Go figure? you can use spring rates to add or subtract body roll,I don't... A high cog, and a low roll center will create its own roll. I go in this direction because it allows me to choose the spring rate need for traction and track condition, with out halving to worry if i'm going to have enough body roll for rear steer, or side bite... Side bite, IMO IS WHAT CREATES 95% of your body roll. If the rt side does not bite the car just skates! But if it does, this creates a centrifugal force which leaves no choice for the ls of the car to try and pole vault over the rt side on corner entry. How often have you seen a loose car with body roll??? How many times have you seen a car that is too tight, LF 3 feet in the air and heads straight for the wall???? The car that is loose suffers from the lack of both(side bite and forward bite) The car that is too tight has too much of both.. A few years back, we had a wide car that would always rub the in side wall of the tire and give us a flat! appon leaving the track with a totally flat rr if I |
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Unregistered(d) |
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were to ever goose the gas to exit the track in a hurry while on the straights, the lf would snap straight up and leave the ground...Only doing 5-10 mph
To make a long story short, Excessive forward bite(LR) causes you to carry the lf, side bite does not! But side bite does get the whole processes started when trying to acheeve body roll... |
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Unregistered(d) |
lifting left front | ||
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Let me tell you guys i take advise from you guys anytime if it does not it just don't work i got this car in the end of 2002 season and i could not get this car to work i keep thinking it was me i will get use to it 4-bar left rear spring behind and z-link rr rear spring on birdcage lr 225 rr 200 lf 650 rf 700 1050 pullbar spring.About two weeks ago i switch the front springs 650 rf and 700 lf added 1/2 rearsteer raised pan-hard bar on pinion one hole added 2 1/2 stagger on rear i had the fast time at 16.46 ona 3/8 mile track on inside almost 1/2 mile on outside i finally found a starting point for this car but i was happy with it. Everyone said i could not run front springs like that i may try little bit softer and add a 250 to the lr right now i have 125 lr rear in the car. The problem all along the car was to tight getting in i thought the car was loose i kept adjusting it was to tight. i always thought i like a tight race car i guess i was wrong a dw is a differt breed for some reason thanks again guyr for a good forum
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